Steeped in maritime history, Old Portsmouth stands as a living testament to Britain’s naval heritage. From the imposing Round Tower that has guarded the harbour since the 15th century to the cobblestone streets that once felt the footsteps of Admiral Nelson, this historic district offers you a fascinating glimpse into England’s seafaring past.
As you wander through the ancient fortifications and gaze across the bustling Solent, you’ll feel centuries of history come alive around you. The area’s charming mix of historic pubs, maritime museums and architectural treasures makes Old Portsmouth a must-visit destination for history enthusiasts and casual explorers alike. Whether you’re tracing the footsteps of literary giants or discovering hidden historical gems, Old Portsmouth’s timeless appeal continues to captivate visitors from across the globe.
The Rich Maritime History of Old Portsmouth
Old Portsmouth’s maritime legacy spans over 800 years, establishing it as a cornerstone of Britain’s naval dominance. This historic district harbours centuries of seafaring tales and naval achievements that shaped the nation’s history.
Naval Powerhouse
Old Portsmouth served as Britain’s premier naval base from the Tudor period through the Victorian era. King Henry VIII established the first dry dock here in 1495, revolutionising ship maintenance and repair. The Royal Navy’s headquarters remained in Portsmouth until 1969, witnessing the development of Britain’s naval forces through numerous conflicts including the Napoleonic Wars and both World Wars.
The Historic Dockyard, situated adjacent to Old Portsmouth, houses HMS Victory, Admiral Nelson’s flagship at the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805. This 104-gun first-rate ship represents British naval engineering excellence and tactical superiority during the Age of Sail.
Defensive Fortifications
Old Portsmouth’s strategic importance necessitated robust defences throughout its history. The Round Tower, constructed in 1418, forms part of the sea defences that protected the harbour entrance. These fortifications expanded over centuries, with additions like the Square Tower (1494) and the Hot Walls, creating an impressive defensive network.
During the English Civil War (1642-1651), these fortifications proved crucial as Portsmouth declared for Parliament against King Charles I. The city withstood several sieges, demonstrating its military significance beyond naval operations.
Maritime Trade and Commerce
The harbour’s natural advantages made Old Portsmouth a thriving commercial port since medieval times. Merchants traded wool, wine, and timber through its docks, establishing economic connections across Europe. By the 18th century, Portsmouth had developed into a significant commercial hub handling goods from Britain’s expanding empire.
Custom House, built in 1785, stands as testament to the volume of trade passing through the port. The elegant Georgian building processed duties on imports and exports during Britain’s commercial golden age, overseeing everything from tobacco from Virginia to spices from the East Indies.
Seafaring Community Life
Old Portsmouth developed a distinct maritime community culture centred around the sea. The Spice Island area earned its name from the exotic cargoes unloaded there and became notorious for its taverns, including The Still & West (established 1781) and The Dolphin, where sailors and smugglers mingled.
The Point, Old Portsmouth’s southernmost tip, housed fishing families for generations. Their cottages, some dating to the 17th century, reflect the modest living conditions of working maritime families who supplied the city with fresh seafood and contributed to its unique cultural identity.
Exploring the Historic Portsmouth Point
Portsmouth Point, often called ‘Spice Island’, sits at the entrance to Portsmouth Harbour and offers a glimpse into the city’s maritime past. This small but significant peninsula has been a hub for sailors, traders, and naval personnel for centuries, creating a unique atmosphere that persists today.
The Spice Island’s Colourful Past
Spice Island earned its nickname from the exotic goods that were once unloaded on its wharves. The area functioned as a bustling trading port in the 18th and 19th centuries, receiving shipments of spices, tobacco, rum, and other valuable commodities from across the globe. Naval sailors and merchants crowded the narrow streets between voyages, creating a lively, sometimes lawless atmosphere.
The peninsula became notorious for smuggling operations during the 1700s. Contraband goods frequently exchanged hands in the warren of alleyways and cellars, away from the watchful eyes of customs officials. Many buildings in the area still feature underground tunnels and hidden storage spaces that once served smugglers evading heavy import duties.
Beyond its illicit activities, Spice Island played a crucial role in supporting Portsmouth’s naval operations. Rope makers, sail makers, chandlers, and numerous other tradespeople established businesses here to service the naval vessels. The remnants of these maritime industries remain visible in certain buildings and street names throughout the Point.
Naval Pubs and Traditional Alehouses
Portsmouth Point boasts some of Britain’s oldest and most characterful pubs, many with direct connections to naval history. The Still & West, positioned at the harbour entrance, offers spectacular views across to Gosport and the incoming ships. Dating back to 1675, this establishment served countless sailors heading to or returning from sea.
The Bridge Tavern, another historic pub, stands near the former bridge that connected Old Portsmouth to Gosport. Navy officers and seamen alike frequented this Georgian tavern, which retains many original features including exposed beams and traditional fireplaces.
Perhaps the most famous drinking establishment is The Spice Island Inn, situated at the very tip of the peninsula. This pub offered the last taste of English ale for many sailors embarking on long voyages and the first welcome home for those returning. The current building dates from the 19th century, but a tavern has occupied this strategic location for over 300 years.
These historic pubs share tales of press gangs that once operated in the area, forcibly recruiting men into naval service. Certain establishments feature ‘snugs’ – small private areas where sailors could hide from recruitment officers or enjoy a quiet drink away from the boisterous main bar.
Many of these centuries-old alehouses maintain their traditional character while serving contemporary food and drinks. Visitors can enjoy local seafood and regional beers while sitting in the same spaces once occupied by Admiral Nelson and his naval contemporaries.
Portsmouth Cathedral and Religious Heritage
Portsmouth’s religious heritage stands as a testament to the city’s spiritual evolution alongside its maritime development. The cathedral and numerous historic churches form an integral part of Old Portsmouth’s cultural landscape, offering visitors a glimpse into centuries of faith and architectural splendour.
St Thomas’s Church Through the Centuries
St Thomas’s Cathedral began as a chapel in the 12th century, serving Portsmouth’s growing medieval community. Originally dedicated to St Thomas of Canterbury (Thomas Becket), the modest structure evolved significantly through major expansions during the 1180s and again in the 13th century.
King John visited in 1208, contributing funds toward the church’s development. St Thomas’s survived numerous threats, including French raids in 1337 and 1380 that damaged parts of the building. Even though these challenges, the church persevered and continued to grow in importance.
The Reformation period brought significant changes, with the church transitioning from Catholic to Protestant worship. During the English Civil War, Parliamentary forces used the church tower as a lookout point, demonstrating its strategic importance beyond religious functions.
St Thomas’s achieved cathedral status relatively recently, in 1927, when the Diocese of Portsmouth was created. This elevation reflects the growing significance of Portsmouth as a population centre. The building’s distinctive Romanesque and Gothic architectural elements remain visible today, showcasing its layered history spanning over 800 years.
Religious Diversity in Old Portsmouth
Old Portsmouth’s religious landscape extends beyond its Anglican cathedral, reflecting centuries of diverse spiritual traditions. The Royal Garrison Church, dating from 1212, served military personnel until it was badly damaged during WWII bombing raids in 1941. Its roofless nave remains as a poignant memorial.
Jewish communities established a presence in Portsmouth by the 18th century, with the first synagogue built in White’s Row in 1747. Catholic worship persisted even though periods of persecution, with St John’s Catholic Cathedral (located in nearby Landport) eventually built in the late 19th century to serve the growing Catholic population.
Non-conformist chapels and meeting houses emerged during the 17th and 18th centuries, particularly Methodist and Baptist congregations that gained popularity among naval families and dockyard workers. These diverse faith communities contributed to Portsmouth’s rich cultural tapestry, often providing vital social support networks for sailors’ families during long voyages.
The religious buildings of Old Portsmouth served multiple functions within the community – acting as places of worship, centres for charitable work, providers of education, and focal points for social gatherings. This diversity of faith traditions continues to characterise Portsmouth’s religious heritage today, with historic buildings repurposed and maintained as important cultural landmarks.
The Fortifications of Old Portsmouth
Old Portsmouth’s defensive structures represent some of Britain’s most impressive military architecture. These fortifications, built over centuries, protected one of England’s most strategic harbours from invasion and attack, creating the defensive backbone that allowed the Royal Navy to flourish.
Round and Square Tower Defences
The Round Tower stands as one of Old Portsmouth’s most recognisable military structures, constructed in 1418 during Henry V’s reign. This imposing circular fortification initially featured a wooden turret that was later replaced with stone in 1494, providing a commanding position over the harbour entrance. The tower played a critical role during the 1545 Battle of the Solent, when French forces attempted to invade Portsmouth and sank the Mary Rose.
Just east of the Round Tower sits the Square Tower, built in 1494 as part of Henry VII’s defensive improvements. The Square Tower originally served as a residence for the Military Governor before being repurposed as a gunpowder storage facility in the 16th century. Its thick walls and strategic position made it integral to harbour defence, with cannon positions allowing crossfire with the Round Tower to create a deadly gauntlet for enemy ships.
These towers formed part of a continuous defensive line that included the Town Walls, which once encircled Old Portsmouth completely. Though partially demolished during the 19th century expansions, significant sections remain visible today, particularly along the seafront, offering visitors a glimpse into the city’s military engineering heritage.
The Hot Walls and Artillery History
The Hot Walls represent one of Portsmouth’s most distinctive defensive features, earning their name from the heat they absorbed and radiated during sunny days. These 15th-century artillery platforms form part of the eastern sea defences, connecting the Round Tower with the Point Battery and creating a formidable barrier against seaborne attacks.
Portsmouth’s artillery history spans six centuries, with the city serving as a testing ground for military innovation. The earliest recorded guns at Portsmouth were bronze pieces installed in the 1400s, while by the Tudor period, the fortifications housed over 100 cannon. The Point Battery, constructed in the 1690s and later expanded, housed impressive 32-pounder guns capable of firing iron balls over 2,700 metres.
Archaeological excavations near the Hot Walls have uncovered numerous artefacts related to artillery operations, including cannonballs of various sizes, gunpowder containers, and maintenance tools. These findings provide valuable insights into the daily operations of Portsmouth’s defences during times of conflict and peace.
The Hot Walls area has been thoughtfully restored in recent years, with the former artillery casements now housing artists’ studios and a café. This adaptive reuse allows visitors to experience these historical structures while appreciating their contemporary cultural value, creating a fascinating blend of military history and modern creativity within Old Portsmouth’s defensive perimeter.
Strolling Through Old Portsmouth’s Cobbled Streets
Old Portsmouth’s cobbled streets offer a captivating journey through centuries of history. These ancient pathways, worn smooth by countless footsteps, connect the district’s most treasured landmarks and hidden gems.
Historic Houses and Architecture
Old Portsmouth’s architecture tells the story of the city’s evolution through distinctive building styles across different eras. The Governor’s House on High Street, dating back to the 18th century, showcases elegant Georgian proportions with its symmetrical façade and sash windows. Along Grand Parade, you’ll find impressive Regency townhouses with decorative ironwork balconies that once housed naval officers and wealthy merchants.
The area boasts several timber-framed buildings from the Tudor period, particularly near the Cathedral Quarter. These structures feature characteristic overhanging upper floors and exposed wooden beams that have survived centuries of maritime weather. The Buckingham House, built in 1611, stands as one of the finest examples with its original wood panelling and ornate plasterwork ceilings.
Portsmouth’s architectural heritage also includes Victorian industrial buildings around the Camber Dock area. The former warehouses and customs buildings have been thoughtfully repurposed as restaurants, galleries, and apartments while preserving their distinctive brick facades and cast-iron detailing.
Many houses in Old Portsmouth feature unique “sea glass” windows—thick, wavy glass panes that distorted the view to prevent onlookers from seeing into private homes. These architectural details, alongside distinctive Portsmouth doorways with shell motifs and nautical knockers, reflect the seafaring character of this historic district.
Hidden Courtyards and Passages
Old Portsmouth conceals a network of secluded courtyards and narrow alleyways that open up a secret side of the city. Bath Square, tucked behind the Still & West pub, offers a peaceful cobbled courtyard with views across the harbour entrance and access to the former bathing platforms where residents once enjoyed sea bathing.
The winding Peacock Lane connects High Street to Grand Parade through a narrow passage barely wide enough for two people to pass. This ancient thoroughfare dates back to medieval times when it served as a quick route for messengers between the harbour and the garrison. Nearby Lombard Street presents another historic alley, once home to money lenders and traders from Lombardy, Italy.
Penny Street boasts a hidden courtyard surrounded by former fishing cottages, accessible only through a discreet archway. These humble dwellings housed generations of fishermen and their families, with communal water pumps and washing areas still visible in the cobbled yard.
The area around the Point Battery contains several secretive passages that smugglers once used to transport contraband. Sally Port, a narrow opening in the sea defences, allowed small boats to land goods discreetly under cover of darkness. These passages connect to cellars beneath pubs where barrels of untaxed brandy and tobacco were hidden from customs officials.
St Thomas’s Street features several gated courtyards that originally served as stables and workshops for local tradespeople. These spaces now house artisan studios and small independent businesses, maintaining their historical character with original cobblestones and brick walls covered in climbing plants.
Old Portsmouth’s Famous Literary Connections
Old Portsmouth has inspired some of Britain’s most celebrated authors through the centuries. Its maritime atmosphere, historic buildings, and colourful characters have provided rich material for novels, poems, and stories that continue to captivate readers worldwide.
Charles Dickens and Sir Arthur Conan Doyle
Charles Dickens maintains a special connection to Old Portsmouth as his birthplace in 1812. The modest house on Old Commercial Road where he was born is now preserved as the Charles Dickens Birthplace Museum. Portsmouth features prominently in several of his works, including ‘Nicholas Nickleby’ where he vividly describes the harbour and surrounding areas.
Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, creator of Sherlock Holmes, practised medicine in Southsea (adjacent to Old Portsmouth) between 1882 and 1890. It’s during this period he wrote ‘A Study in Scarlet’, introducing Holmes to the world. His time in Portsmouth proved formative to his writing career, with the city’s naval character and seafaring population influencing his storytelling. Conan Doyle also played cricket for Portsmouth Cricket Club, integrating himself into local life while developing his literary voice.
These literary giants weren’t merely passing through—they absorbed Old Portsmouth’s unique character and maritime heritage, transforming these experiences into enduring classics that continue to attract literary tourists to the area today. The Portsmouth Literary Map, available at the city’s tourist information centre, guides visitors to significant locations associated with both authors. Visitors can explore the streets where these iconic writers found inspiration, visiting charming pubs and historic sites that echo with literary history. Additionally, local businesses, including the best SEO agency in Portsmouth, leverage this rich cultural backdrop to attract tourists while promoting the city’s literary heritage online. As a result, Portsmouth not only celebrates its literary past but also embraces modern marketing strategies that help maintain its status as a destination for book lovers.
Modern Life in Old Portsmouth’s Ancient Setting
Old Portsmouth harmoniously blends its rich historical heritage with a vibrant contemporary culture. This unique district offers residents and visitors a distinctive lifestyle where centuries-old architecture provides the backdrop for modern amenities, cultural activities, and leisure experiences.
The Thriving Arts Scene
Old Portsmouth’s artistic community flourishes against its historic backdrop, creating a dynamic cultural landscape. The Hot Walls Studios, housed in former artillery casements along the seafront, showcase this perfect fusion of past and present. These 13 working studios host local artists practising various disciplines including painting, sculpture, jewellery making, and textile design.
The Square Tower regularly transforms from a 15th-century defensive structure into a contemporary event space hosting art exhibitions, craft fairs, and poetry readings throughout the year. Popular events include the Portsmouth Bookfest readings and the monthly Square Tower Craft Markets where you’ll find unique handmade items from local artisans.
Street art has also found its place in Old Portsmouth, with several carefully curated murals depicting maritime themes and local history. The annual Portsmouth Festivities in June brings ten days of music, visual arts, and performances to various historic venues across the district, attracting over 30,000 visitors.
The Hotwalls Arts Quarter has become a cultural hub since its £1.75 million renovation in 2016, breathing new life into these historic fortifications. Artists’ open studios events happen quarterly, giving visitors the opportunity to meet creators, watch demonstrations, and purchase original artwork directly from the source.
Waterfront Dining and Entertainment
Old Portsmouth’s waterfront offers exceptional dining experiences with stunning harbour views and fresh seafood specialities. The Still & West pub, dating back to 1781, serves contemporary British cuisine while providing panoramic views of ships entering and leaving the harbour. Nearby, Abarbistro on White Hart Road has earned a reputation for its seasonal menu featuring locally caught fish and regional produce.
The Camber Dock area has evolved into a foodie destination with restaurants like The Briny serving the morning’s catch directly from fishing boats that dock just metres away. For casual dining, The Canteen at the Hotwalls Studios offers artisan coffee, homemade cakes, and light lunches with waterfront seating perfect for watching harbour activities.
Entertainment options abound with weekly live music sessions at The Bridge Tavern and jazz nights at The Spice Island Inn drawing crowds of locals and visitors. During summer months, the waterfront comes alive with outdoor performances at the Square Tower’s garden and pop-up food festivals along the seafront promenade.
The annual Portsmouth International Kite Festival transforms Southsea Common into a colourful spectacle visible from Old Portsmouth’s sea walls. Evening entertainment includes ghost walks revealing the district’s spooky history and harbour boat tours that depart from the Camber Quay offering sunset views of the historic fortifications from the water.
For film enthusiasts, the No.6 Cinema inside the historic Boathouse 6 at Portsmouth Historic Dockyard screens independent and classic films in a unique setting just a short walk from Old Portsmouth’s centre. This independent volunteer-run cinema offers a carefully curated programme that complements the area’s cultural character.
Conclusion
Old Portsmouth stands as a living museum where Britain’s naval past meets the present. Walking its cobbled streets you’ll feel centuries of maritime heritage beneath your feet while discovering architectural treasures from Tudor times to the Georgian era.
From Nelson’s footsteps to Dickens’ birthplace this district offers more than just historical sites. It’s evolved into a vibrant community where restored fortifications house artist studios and historic pubs serve local ales alongside tales of smugglers and sailors.
Whether you’re drawn by the military architecture the literary connections or simply the charm of waterfront dining Old Portsmouth rewards visitors with an authentic glimpse into the soul of Britain’s most significant naval city. It’s not just preserved history but living heritage that continues to shape Portsmouth’s identity today. Visitors can stroll along the cobbled streets, where each corner reveals a story waiting to be told, from historic pubs to fascinating museums. The golden sunsets over the harbor create a picturesque backdrop, enhancing the appeal of exploring the area’s rich past. Indeed, the allure of Milton in Portsmouth’s coastal beauty invites both locals and tourists alike to embrace the vibrant atmosphere and unique character that define this remarkable city.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is Old Portsmouth’s significance to British naval history?
Old Portsmouth has been the cornerstone of Britain’s naval dominance for over 800 years. It served as the premier naval base from Tudor times through the Victorian era, with King Henry VIII founding the first dry dock in 1495. The Royal Navy’s headquarters remained here until 1969, witnessing significant naval developments through the Napoleonic Wars and both World Wars. The Historic Dockyard houses HMS Victory, Admiral Nelson’s flagship, symbolising British naval excellence.
What are the key historical fortifications in Old Portsmouth?
Old Portsmouth features impressive military architecture that protected its strategic harbour. The Round Tower (1418) and Square Tower (1494) defended against invasions, notably during the 1545 Battle of the Solent. Other significant fortifications include the Hot Walls (15th-century artillery platforms) and the Point Battery (established in the 1690s). These structures highlight Portsmouth’s military innovation and have recently been restored, with former artillery casements now housing artists’ studios and cafés.
What is ‘Spice Island’ and why is it famous?
Portsmouth Point, known as ‘Spice Island’, has been a hub for sailors, traders and naval personnel for centuries. This small peninsula was a bustling trading port in the 18th and 19th centuries, notorious for smuggling operations. It’s home to some of Britain’s oldest pubs, including The Still & West and The Spice Island Inn, which have historical connections to naval life. These establishments serve traditional ales and local seafood while sharing stories of press gangs that once roamed the streets.
What religious heritage can be found in Old Portsmouth?
St Thomas’s Cathedral, originally a 12th-century chapel that achieved cathedral status in 1927, anchors Old Portsmouth’s religious heritage. The district features numerous historic churches reflecting the city’s spiritual evolution alongside its maritime development. The Royal Garrison Church, Jewish communities, and non-conformist chapels illustrate the diverse faith traditions that supported sailors’ families and contributed to Portsmouth’s rich cultural tapestry.
Which famous authors are connected to Old Portsmouth?
Charles Dickens was born in Old Portsmouth and drew inspiration from the area for his literary works. Sir Arthur Conan Doyle practised medicine nearby and crafted his iconic Sherlock Holmes stories during his time in the city. Their experiences in Old Portsmouth have created a lasting literary legacy that attracts literary tourists to explore locations associated with their lives and works, as detailed in the Portsmouth Literary Map available at the city’s tourist information centre.
How does modern life blend with history in Old Portsmouth?
Modern Old Portsmouth harmoniously blends historical heritage with contemporary culture. The Hot Walls Studios and Square Tower host art exhibitions and craft fairs, while the waterfront features restaurants offering fresh seafood with stunning views. The district maintains a vibrant entertainment scene with live music, outdoor performances, the annual Portsmouth International Kite Festival, and the No.6 Cinema at the Historic Dockyard. This dynamic lifestyle thrives alongside the district’s ancient cobbled streets and maritime landmarks.
What architectural styles can visitors observe in Old Portsmouth?
Old Portsmouth showcases a rich architectural evolution featuring Georgian, Regency and Tudor styles. Notable buildings include the Governor’s House and Buckingham House. The district’s seafaring character is reflected in unique “sea glass” windows and distinctive doorways. Hidden courtyards and passages like Bath Square and Penny Street reveal the city’s secretive history connected to fishing and smuggling, adding layers to the visual experience of walking through its cobbled streets.
